North of the Eixample, beyond avinguda Diagonal, Passeig de Gràcia ends and Gràcia begins, the district many locals consider the city's loveliest and most liveable. Until 1897 it was an independent town, with a strong working-class, republican and Catalanist tradition; it still keeps its character: narrow streets, low houses, lively squares, artisan workshops, cultural associations and few tourists. It is part of the Barcelona guide.
The squares
Gràcia is lived above all in its squares, full of terraces from morning until late at night:
- Plaça del Sol, the liveliest, a young crowd's meeting point in the evening, ringed by bars.
- Plaça de la Vila de Gràcia, with the clock tower, the district's symbol, and the district hall.
- Plaça de la Virreina, with the church of Sant Joan, quiet and family-friendly.
- Plaça de la Revolució de Setembre de 1868, with an ice-cream kiosk and terraces.
- Plaça del Diamant, which gives its name to Mercè Rodoreda's famous novel, with a civil war air-raid shelter you can visit.
Casa Vicens and modernisme
On calle de les Carolines stands Casa Vicens (1883-1885), the first house Gaudí designed, for a tile merchant: a summer villa inspired by Moorish art, with a chequered façade of green and white ceramic decorated with yellow carnations. UNESCO-listed, it has been open to visitors since 2017. The district also has other modernista buildings, such as Domènech i Montaner's Casa Fuster, now a hotel, at the start of carrer Gran de Gràcia. Park Güell is right above Gràcia, fifteen minutes uphill.
Shops, markets and cinemas
Carrer Gran de Gràcia and surrounding streets, such as calle de Verdi and calle de Astúries, are full of independent shops: vintage and local designer clothing, bookshops, artisan jewellers, record shops and ceramics studios. The modernista iron Llibertat market and the Abaceria Central market are perfect for shopping or a quick lunch at the stalls. On calle de Verdi are the Cines Verdi, one of Barcelona's historic cinemas showing films in their original language with subtitles.
The Festa Major
For a week around 15 August, Gràcia celebrates its Festa Major, Barcelona's most famous and popular festival. Residents of each street work all year to decorate their street around a theme, using recycled materials: plastic bottles, cardboard, fabric, turning the streets into seabeds, jungles, fantasy cities or spaceships. A jury awards the most beautiful street. Day and night there are concerts, castellers, correfocs, community meals and dancing. It draws hundreds of thousands of people: go early to see the decorations at leisure.
Eating and going out
Gràcia has bars and restaurants for every taste and budget: traditional vermouth bars, Catalan tapas, world cuisines (Lebanese, Japanese, Mexican, Italian), vegetarian and vegan places, many cheaper than in the centre. In the evening people gather in the squares, music bars and small clubs; the district has a strong tradition of live music and independent theatre.
Getting there
Gràcia is served by metro line 3 (Fontana), line 4 (Joanic), lines 3 and 5 (Diagonal) and the Generalitat Railways (FGC) to Gràcia station. On foot, from Passeig de Gràcia, it is a few minutes beyond the Diagonal.
Tips
- Gràcia is ideal for staying in an authentic area a few minutes from the centre.
- Respect residents' rest: the squares are lively until late, but neighbours ask for quiet after midnight.
- Combine Gràcia with Park Güell and the Bunkers del Carmel for a full day.
See also Barcelona neighbourhoods.