Catalan cuisine is one of Europe's oldest and most refined: the first Catalan cookbook, the Llibre de Sent Soví, dates from the 14th century. It combines mar i muntanya, sea and mountain, with pairings like chicken and prawns, and has given the world some of the greatest contemporary chefs, from Ferran Adrià to the Roca brothers. It is part of the Barcelona guide; for the national cuisine see Spanish cuisine.
Typical dishes
| Dish | What it is |
|---|---|
| Pa amb tomàquet | Toasted bread rubbed with tomato, oil and salt: it goes with everything |
| Paella and arròs a la cassola | Rice with seafood, in a pan or earthenware dish; best at lunch and never at night, locals say |
| Arròs negre | Black rice with squid ink, served with allioli |
| Fideuà | Like paella, but with short thin noodles instead of rice |
| Bombas | Fried potato and meat balls with spicy sauce, born in Barceloneta |
| Escalivada | Peppers, aubergines and onions roasted over embers |
| Esqueixada | Shredded salt cod salad with tomato, onion and olives |
| Botifarra amb mongetes | Catalan sausage with white beans |
| Fricandó | Veal stew with mushrooms |
| Calçots | Grilled spring onions dipped in romesco sauce, in winter and early spring |
| Suquet de peix | Fishermen's fish stew |
| Crema catalana | Custard with caramelised sugar, cousin of crème brûlée |
Catalan sauces include allioli (garlic and oil), romesco (dried peppers, almonds and hazelnuts) and picada. Sweets include marzipan panellets at All Saints, the Epiphany tortell, cream-filled xuixos and the Easter mona.
Tapas, pintxos and vermouth
In Barcelona tapas are not traditionally free as in Madrid or Granada, but there are excellent bars for a meal of small plates. Classics: patatas bravas, croquetas, pimientos de padrón, octopus, L'Escala anchovies, tortilla. In Poble-sec, calle Blai is lined with Basque pintxos bars, snacks on a cocktail stick sold at a cheap fixed price. Vermouth is drunk on Sunday at noon in the vermuteries of Gràcia, Sant Antoni and Barceloneta, with olives, crisps and tinned seafood.
Markets
Barcelona has an extraordinary market culture. The Boqueria on the Rambla is the most famous, with stall-bars where you eat at the counter; Santa Caterina in the Born, Sant Antoni and La Llibertat in Gràcia are calmer and more authentic. See shopping.
Where to eat
- Barceloneta: fish, seafood, paella and bombas, in local restaurants and on the seafront.
- Born and Gothic Quarter: creative tapas, historic restaurants, cocktail bars.
- Eixample: restaurants at every level, from traditional bars to Michelin-starred venues.
- Gràcia: world cuisines, vermouth and lower prices.
- Poble-sec: calle Blai's pintxos and some of the city's most celebrated tapas restaurants.
- Sant Antoni: brunch, vermouth, new bistros.
The set lunch menu
At weekday lunchtime many restaurants offer the menú del dia: starter, main, dessert, bread and a drink for about 14-18 euros. It is the best way to eat well for a good price.
Fine dining
Catalonia is one of the regions with the most Michelin stars in the world. Barcelona has three-star restaurants such as Lasarte, ABaC and Disfrutar, the latter founded by three former elBulli chefs and named the world's best restaurant, plus dozens of starred venues and chef-led bistros.
What to drink
- Cava, the traditional-method sparkling wine made mainly in the Penedès, drunk on every occasion.
- Red wines from Priorat and Montsant, whites from Penedès and Empordà.
- The local beer Estrella Damm, born in Barcelona in 1876, and many craft beers.
- Horchata, a cool tiger-nut drink, in summer.
- Cremat, flambéed rum with coffee and cinnamon, a sailors' tradition.
Meal times
As throughout Spain, lunch is between 1.30 and 3.30pm and dinner from 8.30-9pm. Before then many restaurants are closed or serve only tourists.
Tips and traps
- Avoid restaurants on the Rambla and at the port with photo menus: frozen paella and high prices.
- Paella is ordered for at least two and takes 20-30 minutes: if it arrives at once, it isn't fresh.
- The Boqueria counters are good but pricey: prefer neighbourhood markets.
- Tipping is optional; leave a few coins or 5-10% for good service.
For nightlife see nightlife.