Seville (Sevilla) is the capital of Andalusia and Spain's fourth city, with about 690,000 inhabitants. It stands on the banks of the Guadalquivir, in a fertile plain that is very hot in summer. For many it is the quintessential Spanish city: of flamenco, processions, the Feria, flower-filled patios and the scent of orange blossom, but also of Carmen, Don Giovanni and Figaro.
History
Probably founded by the Tartessians and called Hispalis by the Romans, next to nearby Itálica, birthplace of Trajan and Hadrian, it was a capital of the Visigothic kingdom and then, as Ishbiliya, one of the most important cities of al-Andalus and capital of the Almohads, who built the Giralda. Taken by Ferdinand III in 1248, in the sixteenth century it lived its golden age as the sole port for trade with the Americas, seat of the Casa de Contratación: one of the richest and most populous cities in Europe. Magellan's expedition set out from here. In the twentieth century it hosted the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition and Expo 92.
What to see
- The cathedral, one of the largest Gothic churches in the world, with Christopher Columbus's tomb, the gilded main altarpiece and the Patio de los Naranjos; the Giralda, the former Almohad minaret turned bell tower, is climbed by a ramp (see Gothic).
- The Real Alcázar, a royal palace still in use, masterpiece of Mudéjar art, with the Patio de las Doncellas and splendid gardens.
- The General Archive of the Indies, with the documents of the colonisation of the Americas.
- The Barrio de Santa Cruz, the old Jewish quarter of white lanes, little squares and patios.
- Plaza de España and María Luisa Park, built for the 1929 Exposition, with ceramic benches dedicated to Spain's provinces.
- The Torre del Oro on the river and the Real Maestranza bullring.
- Triana, the district across the river, cradle of flamenco and ceramics, with its market and the Isabel II bridge.
- The Metropol Parasol, known as Las Setas, the huge wooden structure with panoramic walkways, and the Casa de Pilatos.
- The Museo de Bellas Artes, with Murillo, Zurbarán and Valdés Leal, and the Hospital de la Caridad.
- The Alameda de Hércules, nightlife boulevard, and the Macarena district.
For a short itinerary see a weekend in Seville.
Festivals, flamenco and tapas
Seville has two great spring festivals: Holy Week, with the brotherhood processions and the Madrugá, and the April Fair. It is a capital of flamenco, with tablaos, the Flamenco Dance Museum and the Bienal in even years. Tapas, pescaíto frito, salmorejo and tinto de verano are enjoyed in the bars of the centre and Triana (see tapas).
Practical information
Seville airport has international flights; Santa Justa station is linked by high-speed train to Madrid in about two and a half hours and to Córdoba in 45 minutes. In the city you walk, or use the tram, metro and bikes. The best months are March, April, May, October and November: in July and August temperatures often exceed 40°C. From Seville it is easy to visit Córdoba, Cádiz, Jerez, Ronda and the pueblos blancos.