The Cádiz carnival is considered Spain's funniest and most original and has been declared a festival of international tourist interest. Its soul is not the parades but words: thousands of locals write and sing ironic, satirical songs about politics, current events and everyday life.
History
Its origins go back to the port's golden centuries, when contacts with Genoa and Venice brought masks and customs of the Italian carnival to the city. The carnival also survived the Franco regime, which banned it: for years it lived on as the Fiestas Típicas Gaditanas, moved to spring, before returning to its name and dates with democracy.
The agrupaciones
Carnival groups, agrupaciones, spend all year preparing costumes, music and lyrics. They fall into four categories:
- chirigotas, the most popular, comic and irreverent;
- comparsas, more poetic and refined, with serious, critical lyrics;
- coros, large groups singing on floats accompanied by guitars and mandolins to the rhythm of the Cádiz tango;
- cuartetos, small theatrical groups performing comic sketches.
The Teatro Falla contest
Before the carnival, the Gran Teatro Falla hosts the Official Contest of Carnival Groups, the COAC: weeks of performances, broadcast live across Andalusia, up to the final. Tickets are very hard to find.
Street parties
After the final the city erupts: for about ten days the groups sing in the streets, squares and on floats, alongside spontaneous groups called ilegales. There is the Gran Cabalgata, the Sunday parade, coros touring the centre, the erizada and ostionada, parties with sea urchins and oysters, and the burning of the god Momus at the end. The La Viña district is the heart of the party.
Tips
The carnival takes place in February or early March, depending on the date of Easter. Weekends are packed: book well ahead or stay nearby. Wearing a costume is almost obligatory. See also Spanish festivals.