Cádiz, with about 110,000 inhabitants, is the capital of the southernmost province of Andalusia. Its old town sits at the tip of a long peninsula, almost an island, surrounded by the Atlantic and the bay: the narrow streets always end at the sea, and the light is extraordinary.
History
According to tradition it was founded by the Phoenicians around 1100 BC as Gadir, and it vies for the title of oldest city in Western Europe. It later became Roman Gades. In the 18th century, as seat of the Casa de Contratación, it held the monopoly of trade with the Americas and enjoyed a golden age: from this period date its more than one hundred watchtowers, from which merchants looked out for arriving ships. In 1812, besieged by Napoleon's troops, Cádiz hosted the Cortes that passed Spain's first Constitution, known as La Pepa, one of the most liberal of its time.
What to see
- The cathedral, built between 1722 and 1838, with its great golden dome and the crypt where composer Manuel de Falla rests; the Torre de Poniente looks over the whole city.
- Torre Tavira, the tallest watchtower, with a camera obscura projecting live images of the city.
- The districts of El Pópulo, the oldest, with the Roman theatre, Santa María, cradle of Cádiz flamenco, and La Viña, working-class and cheerful.
- La Caleta, the small beach between the castles of San Sebastián and Santa Catalina, with the old bathing house.
- The Oratorio de San Felipe Neri, where the 1812 Cortes met.
- The Central Market, Plaza de las Flores, Parque Genovés and the walk along the walls.
- The Museo de Cádiz, with Phoenician sarcophagi.
Beaches
Besides La Caleta, the long urban beach of La Victoria and Santa María del Mar. Along the Costa de la Luz are some of Spain's finest beaches.
Festivals and food
The Cádiz carnival is Spain's most famous and witty. The city is also a paradise of fried fish and tuna: see Cádiz cuisine.
Around Cádiz and getting there
The sherry triangle, with Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa María and Sanlúcar de Barrameda, the white villages and the coast down to Tarifa. Cádiz is about an hour and a half by train from Seville; the nearest airport is Jerez. A catamaran links the city to El Puerto de Santa María and Rota.