San Asensio is a small municipality of about 1,200 people in the Rioja Alta, in La Rioja, between Nájera and Haro, near the Ebro. Surrounded by vineyards, it is a village of winegrowers and wineries, known as the capital of clarete, a traditional rosé of the area. See also Spanish wine.
History
The village belonged to the territory of Valpierre, under royal jurisdiction. Like much of the Rioja Alta, in the 18th century it was for some years part of the province of Burgos, before the province of Logroño, today's La Rioja, was created in 1833. The name comes from devotion to Saint Asensio. Village life has always revolved around the vine.
Clarete
Clarete is a wine traditionally made by fermenting red and white grapes together, with brief skin contact, giving it a bright pink colour and a fresh taste. San Asensio has the longest tradition of this wine in La Rioja, and many family wineries still make it alongside Rioja reds and rosés. Beneath the village lie many calados, cellars dug into the ground.
The Batalla del Clarete
In late July, during the Santiago festivities, the Batalla del Clarete takes place: thousands dressed in white gather on the hill near the village and drench each other with rosé wine using buckets, water pistols and bottles. It is one of La Rioja's most fun festivals, similar to Haro's Wine Battle.
What to see
- The 16th-century church of Santa María de la Asunción, with its Baroque altarpiece.
- The monastery of Nuestra Señora de la Estrella, nearby among the vineyards.
- The calados and wineries, some open by appointment.
- Paths through the vineyards, with guardaviñas, small stone huts used by vineyard watchmen.
Getting there
San Asensio is about 30 km from Logroño and 20 km from Haro. A car is the easiest option.