Laguardia, Biasteri in Basque, is a village of about 1,500 people in the province of Álava, in the Basque Country, and the main town of the Rioja Alavesa. It stands on a hill surrounded by vineyards, between the Sierra de Cantabria and the Ebro. It is considered one of Spain's prettiest villages and a top wine tourism destination. See also Spanish wine.
History
Founded in the 10th century as a fortress of the Kingdom of Navarre against Castile, hence the name "the guard", it received town privileges in 1164. Medieval walls with gates still surround the centre. Beneath the houses runs a network of over three hundred underground cellars, calados, where wine was once made: that is why cars are banned from the old town.
What to see
- The church of Santa María de los Reyes, with its 14th-century polychrome Gothic portico, one of the few to keep its colours, repainted in the 17th century.
- The fortified church of San Juan Bautista, built into the walls.
- The Plaza Mayor, with the town hall clock, from which automata emerge to dance to traditional music.
- The walls and gates, such as the Puerta de San Juan and Puerta de Carnicerías.
- The underground cellars, some open to visitors.
- The Carralogroño pond and the prehistoric village of La Hoya.
Designer wineries
Around Laguardia stand wineries designed by great architects:
- Bodega Ysios, by Santiago Calatrava, with an undulating aluminium roof echoing the mountain;
- the Hotel Marqués de Riscal, in Elciego, by Frank Gehry, with its roof of rippling pink, silver and gold sheets;
- many family and historic wineries open for visits.
Festivals and food
The patron saint festivities of San Juan and San Pedro are in late June, with the Cachimorro dance. Food: patatas a la riojana, chuletillas al sarmiento and the red wines of the Rioja Alavesa.
Getting there
Laguardia is about 20 km from Logroño and 45 km from Vitoria-Gasteiz. Buses run from both, but a car is best for visiting wineries. See also Haro.