The Barrio de las Letras, also called Huertas after its main street, occupies the triangle between the Puerta del Sol, calle de Alcalá and the Paseo del Prado. It is a small district of narrow, partly pedestrianised streets, with low houses, wrought-iron balconies, historic taverns and theatres. Its name recalls that here, in the late 16th and 17th centuries, the greatest writers of the Spanish Golden Age lived and wrote. It is part of the Madrid guide.
The writers' district
When Philip II brought the court to Madrid in 1561, the city attracted artists, actors and writers looking for patrons and audiences. They settled in this district near the corrales de comedias, the courtyards where plays were staged.
- Miguel de Cervantes, author of Don Quixote, lived and died in 1616 on calle del León, at the corner of the street that now bears his name. He was buried in the nearby Trinitarias Descalzas convent, where his remains were identified in 2015; the nuns still sell handmade sweets.
- Lope de Vega, the most prolific playwright in history, lived for 25 years in the house on calle de Cervantes, now the Casa Museo de Lope de Vega, with its garden, study and period furnishings, visited free by appointment.
- Francisco de Quevedo and Luis de Góngora, fierce poetic rivals, lived a few metres apart; Quevedo bought the house where Góngora lived in order to evict him.
Walking around you notice the bronze quotations of great Spanish writers set into the pavement, especially on calle de las Huertas, from Cervantes to Zorrilla, Bécquer to Galdós.
What to see
- Plaza de Santa Ana, the main square, with terraces, statues of Calderón de la Barca and Federico García Lorca, the Teatro Español, Madrid's oldest theatre, built on the site of the Corral del Príncipe, and the ME Madrid Reina Victoria hotel with its rooftop.
- The Congress of Deputies, on Carrera de San Jerónimo, with bronze lions cast from enemy cannons; open on certain open days.
- The Ateneo de Madrid, a historic cultural club, and the Royal Academy of History.
- The basilica of Jesús de Medinaceli, focus of great popular devotion on the first Friday of March.
- Antón Martín market, with traditional stalls and small world-food restaurants.
- CaixaForum and the Royal Botanical Garden, on the edge of the Paseo del Prado.
Eating and going out
Huertas is one of Madrid's liveliest areas in the evening. Around plaza de Santa Ana and on calle de Echegaray, calle de la Cruz and calle de Núñez de Arce are historic tiled bars with zinc counters, taverns serving garlic prawns, vermouth and cider, ever-crowded cervecerías and flamenco venues such as the famous Villa Rosa with its azulejo façade. The night continues in music bars and pubs on calle de las Huertas. See eating in Madrid and nightlife.
Why stay here
The Barrio de las Letras is perhaps the ideal base for a first visit: five minutes from the Puerta del Sol, five from the Prado, with plenty of hotels and apartments, restaurants for every budget and a neighbourhood feel. The only drawback is night-time noise in the streets around plaza de Santa Ana. See where to stay in Madrid.
Tips
- Visit Lope de Vega's house by booking the free guided tour online.
- Afternoon is the best time to stroll, evening for tapas.
- Combine the district with the Prado and the Thyssen, a few steps away.
See also all neighbourhoods.