Santander, with about 175,000 inhabitants, is the capital of Cantabria, on Spain's north coast. It faces a large natural bay, a member of the most beautiful bays in the world club, and since the early 20th century has been an elegant seaside resort, chosen by the royal family for summer holidays. It is also the birthplace of Banco Santander.
History
A Roman port, Portus Victoriae, Santander grew in the Middle Ages as a trading port and in the 18th century became the outlet for Castile's wool and grain to the Americas. In 1893 the explosion of the dynamite-laden ship Cabo Machichaco in the harbour killed hundreds. In 1941 a great fire destroyed much of the old centre, which was later rebuilt.
What to see
- The Magdalena peninsula, a large park with the Magdalena Palace, built in the early 20th century as King Alfonso XIII's summer residence and now home to the Menéndez Pelayo International University summer courses. The park also has a small marine zoo with seals and penguins and Vital Alsar's caravels.
- El Sardinero beaches, with the Gran Casino and Belle Époque hotels, and the Piquío gardens.
- The Centro Botín, an arts centre designed by Renzo Piano, suspended over the sea next to the Jardines de Pereda.
- The Paseo de Pereda, the seafront with 19th-century mansions, and the Palacete del Embarcadero.
- The Gothic cathedral, with the Crypt of Christ, where Roman remains can be seen.
- The Cantabrian Maritime Museum and MUPAC, the prehistory museum.
- The Cabo Mayor lighthouse and the coastal path.
Festivals and food
The Semana Grande, in late July, with concerts, fireworks, the Santiago Fair and the Baños de Ola, re-enacting 19th-century sea bathing. Specialities: rabas, fried squid rings, Santoña anchovies, cocido montañés, sobaos and quesada pasiega.
Around Santander
- Santillana del Mar, one of Spain's prettiest medieval villages.
- The Altamira cave, with Palaeolithic paintings, a UNESCO site, visited through the replica at the Altamira Museum.
- Cabárceno park, with animals roaming in an old mine.
- Comillas, with Gaudí's Capricho, and the Picos de Europa.
Getting there
Seve Ballesteros airport is about 5 km away. Ferries sail from the port to Portsmouth and Plymouth in the UK. Santander has trains to Madrid and buses to Bilbao, about an hour away.