Peñíscola, with about 8,800 inhabitants, is a town in the province of Castellón, in the Valencian Community, on the Costa del Azahar. Its old town covers a rocky headland almost surrounded by the sea, joined to the mainland by a thin strip of sand, and is one of the most spectacular villages on Spain's Mediterranean coast.
History
The headland was settled by Iberians, Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans and Arabs. Taken by James I of Aragon in 1233, it passed to the Knights Templar, who built the castle between 1294 and 1307. The most famous figure in its history is Pedro Martínez de Luna, Papa Luna, elected in Avignon as Benedict XIII during the Western Schism. Not recognised by the Council of Constance, he withdrew to Peñíscola in 1411, making the castle a papal seat, and died there in 1423, convinced to the end that he was the rightful pope. He gave Spanish the expression seguir en sus trece, "to stick to one's guns".
What to see
- Papa Luna's castle, a Templar fortress with a Gothic hall, basilica, papal library and sea views.
- The old town, with white houses, cobbled lanes and Philip II's Renaissance walls.
- The church of Santa María and the hermitage of the Virgen de la Ermitana, the town's patron.
- The Bufador, a natural cave in the rock where waves in rough seas throw up spray between the houses.
- The Artillery Park and the lighthouse.
Cinema
Peñíscola has been the set of famous productions: El Cid (1961) with Charlton Heston and Sophia Loren, and Game of Thrones, where it played the city of Meereen. It hosts a Comedy Film Festival.
Beaches and nature
Playa Norte, about five kilometres long, and Playa Sur, near the port. South of the town lies the Serra d'Irta natural park, one of the region's last unspoilt coasts, with coves and seaside trails.
Food and festivals
Suquet de peix, arroz a banda, arroz negro, octopus and galeras, mantis shrimp typical of the area. The patron saint festivities of the Virgen de la Ermitana, in September, with the Moors and Christians dance.
Getting there
Castellón airport is about 50 km away, Valencia's about 150 km. The nearest railway station is Benicarló-Peñíscola, 7 km away. See also Benicàssim.