In Spain the nativity scene is called belén, from Bethlehem, or nacimiento, and it is the most widespread symbol of Christmas. It is set up in homes, churches, town halls, shops and squares, often from early December.
Origins
The nativity tradition came to Spain from Italy. It was above all Charles III, king of Naples before becoming king of Spain in 1759, who spread it: he brought to Madrid his passion for the Neapolitan crib and had a great nativity set up at court, the Belén del Príncipe, with figures by Neapolitan and Valencian craftsmen, partly kept in the Royal Palace. From then on the fashion spread among nobility and people, and schools of nativity craftsmen emerged in Spain, especially in Murcia, with the Baroque sculptor Francisco Salzillo, in Barcelona and in Granada.
Belenes to see
- Madrid: the nativity at the Real Casa de Correos in Puerta del Sol, the City Hall's in the Cibeles palace and the Neapolitan crib in the Royal Palace; don't miss the Christmas market in Plaza Mayor, where figures and accessories are sold (see Christmas markets).
- Murcia: the Salzillo Museum holds Salzillo's great eighteenth-century nativity, with over five hundred figures depicting life in Murcia at the time.
- Barcelona: the nativity in Plaça de Sant Jaume, different each year and often contemporary, and the Fira de Santa Llúcia in front of the cathedral, running since the eighteenth century.
- Seville, Granada and Jerez, with artistic nativities displayed by brotherhoods and associations.
Living nativities
Many villages stage living nativities (belenes vivientes), with hundreds of residents recreating Bethlehem and old trades. Among the most famous are those of Buitrago del Lozoya, near Madrid, Arcos de la Frontera in Andalusia, among the lanes of the old town, and the pessebres vivents of Catalonia, such as Corbera de Llobregat.
The caganer
The Catalan nativity, the pessebre, always includes the caganer: a peasant figurine wearing the traditional red cap, the barretina, crouching in a corner relieving himself. A symbol of fertility and good luck for the new year, he has also become a vehicle for satire: today caganers are sold in the likeness of politicians, footballers and celebrities. See also Christmas in Spain.