Astorga, with about 10,500 inhabitants, is a small town in the province of León, in Castile and León, on the edge of the Maragatería. It is a key stage of the Way of St James, where the French Way meets the Vía de la Plata coming up from Seville.
History
It was Roman Asturica Augusta, founded as a military camp and later an important administrative centre for the gold mines of the area, such as Las Médulas. In the Middle Ages it became a bishopric and pilgrim town, with many hospitals.
What to see
- The Episcopal Palace, designed by Antoni Gaudí at the end of the 19th century: a neo-Gothic castle of white granite with towers, housing the Museo de los Caminos, devoted to the Way of St James.
- The cathedral of Santa María, between Gothic and Baroque, with a carved façade and a museum of sacred art.
- The Roman walls, largely preserved, and the Roman Route, visiting the baths, sewers and the House of the Bear.
- The Baroque town hall, whose clock is struck by two figures of maragatos in costume.
- The Chocolate Museum, recalling the town's chocolate tradition, with dozens of factories in the 19th century.
Food
- Cocido maragato, the signature dish, eaten "backwards": meats first, then chickpeas and vegetables, and finally the soup.
- Astorga mantecadas, small butter cakes.
- Chocolate, still made by hand.
- Hojaldres, puff-pastry sweets.
Around Astorga
The Maragatería, a region of stone villages such as Castrillo de los Polvazares, with well-preserved traditional architecture. The maragatos were famous as muleteers and carriers. Further west, the climb to the Cruz de Ferro, one of the Camino's most symbolic places, and Las Médulas, a UNESCO site.
Getting there
Astorga is about 50 km from León, linked by train and bus. For pilgrims, it is about 260 km from Santiago de Compostela.